J'ai trouvé un bullet proof pour 4tec sur site anglais et il parle de "bailer tube". Quelqu'un peut me dire c'est quoi?
BULLET-PROOF YOUR RXP/RXT/GTX 4-TECS
(1) Make sure your unit has had the hood-latch update done.
(2) Make sure your knock-sensor update is done if your unit qualifies.
(3) Add clamps or stainless-tabbed zip-tyes to your bailer tube check valves, the gray ones inside the rear area of your hull.
(4) Make 110% sure the bailer tubes themselves are securely inserted in the venture.
(5) Secure your bailer hose plastic 90 degree elbows up high in the hull, NEVER allow them to lay-low in the hull or water will inject instead of remove.
(6) Never accelerate “throttle-to-the-bar” unless in at least a 5-6 ft. depth of water to avoid pump/impeller/wear-ring damage.
(7) Anytime the stock Intake Grate is going to be removed always use direct heat on the bolts to free the Loc-Tite, I use a very heavy duty soldering gun as open flames are not to safe for the area. Many broken bolts can be avoided this way.
(8 ) When not in use always store with the seat removed to allow all moisture to escape into the atmosphere and not find it’s way into your precious electrics, we fix many machines that have electrical demons that are easily avoidable with this and some well placed, light mists of WD-40 or a similar product.
(9) Fog the engine with the appropriate lube. WD-40 isn’t the right one for fogging.
(10) 80% of the hull repairs we do were not done by the owner……be careful who rides your PWC especially at the speeds they are capable of these days.
(11) Run a blow-off valve for supercharger clutch longevity. It provides no real power gain but is a big reduction in the abuse that is an actual *good method* of solving a tough problem that Rotax had to address when developing this set-up. This keeps the SC shaft from snapping when the pump loads and re-loads at high RPM and heavy loads.
(12) You can take this to the highest level of protection by using a heavy-duty clutch kit from Rotax Racing and combining it with a BOV.
(13) Always avoid running anywhere near any ropes or ski-ropes as they can destroy your hull’s thru-hull passage for the drive-shaft. Most other models are easy to repair in this area, NOT the RXP though. It can be extremely damaging and it is equally if not harder to repair.
(14) Always check your engines oil level when it is at absolute operating temperature and sitting level. Optimum height on the dip-stick is 1/2-3/4 of the way up the indentation on the stick. This is the number 1 cause of engine RPM lose closely followed by damaged impellers, wear-rings and slipping SC clutches.
(15) Replace the spring clamps at the heat-exchanger plate spigots with high quality hose clamps.
(16) Replace the Exit Exhaust Hose with a high quality metal tube designed to handle water and not rust or corrode.
Accueil
FAQ
Rechercher
S'enregistrer
Membres
